Monday, February 19, 2007

Flag street....


We live on Real de Guadalupe...this is it. We used to call it flag street, however sometime miraculously last week they took the flags down, much to our disappointment. Luckily Andres took this picture before that happened so we have a memory of it. I have taken very few pictures since I arrive in San Cirstobal because my camera batteries died the night we got here and I had not charged them. Hopefully I will start taking more now!




This next picture is going to win me a photography contest. Aren't her feet beautiful?





This was a cool day in Sayulita. It is a beautiful place. Anyways I need to go now. We are getting ready to go to yoga....finally some exercise! It is a good thing we walk alot and do lots of salsa otherwise I would be pretty huge. haha

Saturday, February 17, 2007

hablo de nuestros escaleras


I am writing in our stairs. It is hard and cold but if I want to put some more pics up without going to an internet cafe or restaurant here is the best place. Therefore I am just going to post many pictures and few words. Hopefully they will be pretty self explanatory.

This is at a vegetarian restaurant in Tepic. We went to two very delicious veggie restaurants there. :D It is amazing what you cna find if you know someone who is from there eh? Karyn, Gizette, Alica, Me, Adriana. I probably spelled Alica's friend's names wrong, sorry. I will check with her later. :)
Well I had a few more that I wanted to post but I am going to need to wait for a better connection. Hasta manana.

Friday, February 16, 2007

scralls from TierrAdentro


Finally. A few random pictures for everyone who is still reading this. To the left is Leonardo de Vaca. We are in Guadalajara I believe. If you read a couple weeks ago you can find out all about it. :) Right now I am sitting in TierrAdentro. Heather and I just finished the vegetarian meal of the day. For 40 pesos you get agua del dia (fruit y water juice), soup, bread, rice and veggies with sauce and tortillas. 40 pesos is about $5 and there was enough food for Heather and I to split. We think that is so cheap, and yet there are children who sit out the door here who could never afford it. They ask us for money to afford their 'tortillas'. The arbitrarily decided price raise of corn has caused a lot of problems for the people here. Sophia is writing her essay on corn and globalization impacts but so far we haven't discovered the truth about who or what raised the price of corn, all we know is that it is causing huge social implications for the people in this region.
I just finished drinking a coco cappucino...that isn't chocolate by the way....it is coconut.....mmmmmmmm.
This picture is of Alica, Karyn and I in San Blas. Alica's father took us there when we were in Tepic. I haven't written about that part of our trip yet. It was a nice day though...we first went on a tour of some wetlands and saw muchos cocodrilos y despues fuimos a San Blas.
Today I think Sophia and I are going skirt shopping. The clothes I brought just aren't cutting it...they are more casual travel clothes and run out fast. I need something pretty. After we do that we are going to Compitch to talk about their objectives to recover, defend, define and develop the traditional medicine of Chiapas. When Heather found their website I just about wet myself. It is exactly what I needed for my research paper. Anyways I am going to end this here before the computer deletes it and I perform a freak show in this public place. However, now that I have my technology figured out I promise many more pictures in the next few days. Ciao.

El fin de semana

It is the end of our second week of classes. I cannot believe it. Time flies here. A typical day for me goes like this. Get up, eat homeade granola and maybe some organic peanut butter and local jam on 'Casa del Pan' bread or tortillas. Go to school at 9:30 - during our break at 11:00 I go to Casa del Pan for a snack, either cookies, muffins, pizza, empanadas, or brownies. :) Go back to class. Class ends at noon. Then we decide where we are going to 'study'. We usually go to either Casa del Pan, Tierra Verde, the cacao house (if it's Wed. - Fri.), Kinoki (after 5:30), TierrAdentro, or home. We eat, we research, we organize meetings with local NGO's and community groups. Heather does the calling and talking because she speaks Spanish well. Depending on the day we may have no meetings with people or 4 meetings. So far we have met many amazing people who have given us information that will help us greatly with our final paper. My topic is Mayan medicine. My research question is how westernization is affecting Mayan medicine practices. My hypothese are that it is affecting it negatively because more people are using Western medicine when sick, or positively because indigenous people are using Mayan medicine as a form of resistance against western culture, or it's both positive and negative because collaboration is happening. When I finish my paper I will post it for all you keeners. I apologize for not writing every day....technically I should, but the days seem to go by so fast because we have so much to accomplish in a short period of time. Yesterday I tried to post some pictures but it didn't works so well. I will try again today so hopefully you get to see some of my trip that you read about ages ago.

I may have mentioned that we live on flag street. We no longer live there, or rather we do, but they removed the flags much to our disappointment. It was how we found our way home!!! haha. I have been learning alot. It is amazing what your environment can do for the amount of knowledge you can soak up. Before coming here I knew nothing about Latin American politics. Now, you could ask me about most of the countries in Latin America and I could tell you their president, what he stands for, and what different people think of him! I also could tell you about most of the organic food initiatives in thsi town, the corn problem, the coffee issue, the poverty statistics and injustices, where to get really good italian, indian, vegetarian, lebanese, or thai food, where to find salsa dancing, yoga, midwives, carpentarias, organic handmade tortillas, gifts, good fruit and leather products. The great thing about being with a group our size is everyone has found something and it adds to our collective knowledge of all the things San Cristobal has to offer. James has called San C. hippy Disneyland. not sure where the Disneyland comes from but there are a lot of hippies here, which is the main reason there are so many cool initiatives happening. Anyways I am going to have to leave for class now. I'll try to come on later and tell another story from the past week. hasta luego!

Thursday, February 8, 2007

Agua y Cacao

Agua - For a week Karyn has been trying to get a large jug of water for our apartment. She told me that the lady wouldn’t let her buy it. I thought that was ridiculous so finally I decided to go with her. Sure enough, we get the large jug up to the counter and the cashier tells us we cannot buy the water. “Queremos comprar la agua por favor.” I tell her. She rattles something off at me in Spanish. So I say “Donde podemos comprar agua?” She rattles something off again and points to the street. “No entiendo.” She looks to other people behind her and asks (in Spanish) how do you say truck in English? Ah. I tell her,
“Podemos comprar la agua de el coche de agua?”
“Si, si.”
“Perfecto.”
“En la manana.”
“Ah, a que hora?”
“No se.”
“Okay. Esta bien, muchas gracias.”
We leave the store only to remember we NEED water. We race back and are able to buy a few bottles before the store closes. Oh the wonders of language and cultural barriers. I love it though. Both of us, and the cashier need to put so much effort into the encounter but we both get so much out of it. At the very least a few laughs and smiles. I love Mexico. In Canada if you don’t speak English many people will just ignore you if you need something and can’t say it. Here most everyone tries to communicate. It is very good for us.

Right now Heather and I are sitting in the Casa de Cacao. The time has stopped here. This place, just discovered today, is one of the many treasures of San C. Here you can drink a cup of chocolate. Not any chocolate either – this chocolate is from raw cacoa beans grown locally. This chocolate comes in many types of drinks. Do you want yours with honey and vanilla? Chai? Maize and honey? Chile and cinnamon? Or a variety of other ways? This place is amazing. They have La Escuela de Cacoa here, aka. School of Chocolate. Heaven. There is also an organic store here – I am right at home. Plus the woman who runs the store is going to put us in contact with local organic farmers which not only be for our own interest and curiosity and health but will also help us to write our final paper for Political Science in three weeks.

Reflecting my vacation pt. 1

Jan. 29th
When we were leaving the airport heading for Tuxtla we passed under a bridge. Painted on the side was Bienvenidos a Chiapas Tierra de Oportunidades. That’s how I feel. Here is different and here is the same but the point is that here there are many opportunities for me. So much has happened the past week in Mexico. Alica has taken us many amazing places and we have had a fantastic time. I love Mexico – there is so much to love, so much to see, so much to experience. I guess it’s like that anywhere, just here I feel like opening. I feel like the flower that wants to expose it’s insides to the sun. All the soft inner petals…I want Mexico to touch those parts. I think before when I was here I focused on the differences between what I was used to and what was here. This time is so different. I was just open. I’m not really picking out the differences or the similarities, nor ignoring them. Just appreciating what is.

Our itinerary for the past week is this:
We left Guadalajara and headed for Puerto Vallarta. We spent three nights there at a hotel by the beach. Then we headed north a little to Guayabitos where Alica’s uncle has a hotel and we stayed there two nights. Then we went to Alica’s hometown, Tepic, for two nights, back to Guadalajara for a night and the next night we took the bus to Mexico City. Spent part of that night and one more night in the city and flew today from Toluca to Tuxtla.

Now let me fill in the blanks. We left Guadalajara after we had sorted out our accommodation. After we took a taxi to the west end of the city we got on a very luxurious bus and headed for the beach. Muy exitando! When we arrived in Puerto Vallarta we met Emma (I nannied for her in Fernie) and I got to see her and the babies which was fantastic. Afterwards we went to our hotel. Much to our luck and Alica’s connections we got a good deal and one day free if we stayed for 3 days. So we did. That evening we went to the beach and chased the waves. How I love the ocean.

When you look at the ocean there are many things to feel. Connected – to all the other humans and living things on the earth connected by the vast expanses of water. Small – you realize how very little you are in the world, but know everyone else is in the same position and the stars wouldn’t be so fantastic if each star didn’t shine it’s brightest right? Peace – that something so large is capable of sharing with you and your life. Happiness – to just be, to see to hear, to feel.
I love the ocean.

After we played in the waves and had some guys invite us to go out with them (we politely declined and Alica decided that the next time we ran into persuasive males she would pretend she didn’t speak Spanish.) We went to the ‘main street’ in Puerto Vallarta. It’s right by the water with lots of bars, shops and tourists. In the square a sister (violinist) and her brother (piano and beats) were performing. After we ate some corn, crepes and fruit from the vendors we listened to them perform until about midnight. They are very talented. After that we walked about and checked out the entertainment elsewhere on the street. We went to bed really early. ;)

The next day we spent walking downtown looking around both new and old P.V. I bought a pair of shoes, for salsa. They are not perfect but they were very cheap, the heel is perfect height and they have straps…what else could one hope for? Along the way Karyn found a dress she liked. On the way back we planned to stop and look at it. When we got outside the store the woman she had been dealing with before saw her and came running, showing her many of the beautiful dresses. Karyn and I both tried the one we liked on. We decided to purchase them. The woman thanked us very much and Alica for translating. She told Alica her story of coming so far from her country to be here, about her many children, and how that nobody had been buying anything and she had to borrow 20 pesos to buy something for her little girl. 20 pesos. It’s a pittance to us, but to her it meant food for her 3 year old. It was so moving. You feel so disgusted sometimes at the injustice of the world, but even more that you are a part of it. Everything I do affects someone else and I never will make perfect decisions. I just hope that in my little place I can do something to make a difference for someone else. This is the purpose of our natural life I think - To touch others and to let them touch us. It is through sharing and helping and giving that we can experience the true meaning of being human.

After our sober afternoon we enjoyed some chill time and went out on the town again. Alica and I – Karyn wasn’t feeling well so she stayed in. We went to a Cuban bar with live salsa and had a great time dancing. I am now able to dance with a partner and follow! Yay! It was a lot of fun and the music was really great.

The next day we were supposed to meet a surfer we met the previous night. He had promised Alica and I that we would be standing and so of course we were super excited. Unfortunately he is English and the cell phone situation was not spectacular. We ended up going by ourselves to Sayulita and enjoying a nice relaxing day on the beach. I fell asleep and so I acquired some very interesting burn lines. At the end of the day it got cloudy and I went to get a cappuccino. A lovely guy named Jose (Pepe) made it for me. (More on him later J)

We headed back to Puerto Vallarta in good time and spent our last night on the town again. It’s not a big place and we ran into Dave (the surfer) again. To avoid phone troubles we arranged to meet him at the bus to Sayulita at noon the next day. At the last minute he appeared, which was fortunate for us because we learned how to surf! He turned out to be a fantastic teacher and I stood up the first wave I caught! Alica did fantastic as well and he said we were in the top 5% of people he taught. As you can imagine we were pretty thrilled with that. Surfing is so much fun. Alica and I have decided that whenever we have a chance we are going to the beach. From here to a good beach is probably 6 hours or more by if we leave after class Friday we can get there in decent time. We are also thinking about buying a surfboard but we’ll keep renting for awhile anyways. It’s pretty cheap, or it was in Sayulita - $20US aprox. Per day.

That day in Sayulita we had all our luggage with us (just the stuff we had been carrying from Guadalajara) and so Karyn sat with it awhile but eventually we were like let’s put all our valuables in Alica’s red suitcase and lock it. If someone wants to run off with a red suitcase we are going to see it from the water. And all was well J That night we left Sayulita early because we had to walk out to the highway to catch the bus to Guayabitos. There is always a bus right from town into P.V. but not the other way. We decided to play it safe and leave in the light. It was a good plan. We got to Guayabitos in good time, finally found Alica’s uncle’s hotel and were set up for the night. We have been so lucky this trip. Rarely have we had to pay for accommodation and we have seen so many wonderful places.

The next day we headed back to Guayabitos to, you guessed it, SURF! However, the weather wasn’t really in our favour. It was windy and therefore the waves were more powerful and came more quickly. It was tough to even get out to a place to catch a wave. After awhile I just decided to go in. I sat in the coffee shop (where I met Jose) and drank a mocha. He was there and so we communicated as much as we could. When Alica came in for a drink I told her about my little crush on him and so with a little persuasion I allowed her to ask him if he wanted to go for a walk with me after he finished work. Miracle or miracles he did. We walked along the stormy beach and did our best to communicate in Spanish. Whenever he spoke too fast I would make him write it in the sand. We had a great time. When we got back to the coffee shop and were waiting to meet Alica and Karyn he tried to teach me some capoeira. It is a Brazilian marital arts/ dance form. It involves such moves as doing standing still back flips or using one hand as a pivot point for many crazy flips. So far I am having problems just doing the basic step.

When Alica and Karyn finally came back, we went out for dinner. Jose had already made me a sandwich so I just had a few drinks. He was so sweet. He paid for not only my drinks, but Alica and Karyn’s meal as well. We stayed too late and had to make our way to the highway to catch the bus back to Guayabitos. Lucky for us Jose came with us in a taxi, paid for our taxi, and stood on the side of the dark highway with us waiting to flag down the bus. After he knew we were safely on the bus he walked back into town. Amazing guy. I hope he comes to visit me here.

The next day we basically ate chilaquiles for breakfast. Surprise, surprise ;). Then we debated whether we were going surfing again (Alica and I really wanted to) or go to Tepic. We thought that Karyn may have broken her toe surfing the day before and so with that on our conscience we decided to skip the beach and head straight to Tepic.

Thursday, February 1, 2007

Jan. 18th

Guadalajara is a lovely city. I think I could live here. The weather is grand, the city has much to see and do, there is a great university, the people are friendly and I think I even could find some organic food! Alica pointed out a restaurant today that she knows serves organic. Yay!

Today we did the Guadalajara tour on a bus. Well first we waited for the bus and listened to the reggueton and the Black Eyed Peas blasting from a truck stereo while appreciating Minerva in all her glory. You know you are in a good place where they have female statues…and not mystical half dressed artistic statues (they have those too) but one of a female warrior. Power to women yay!

We sat on the top level in the bright sunshine and listened to a recording tell us about various monuments and buildings within the city. On the Spanish recording was your average northern Mexican voice. On the English recording?? I swear he was a Texan. Especially when he started going off about the military hospital and training grounds. There was a Mexican solider there…he seemed like he was supposed to be ‘standing guard’ by a tree but he looked too relaxed.

We went to Tlaquepaque today on the tour bus. We saw everything from beautiful churches and houses to shoes hanging over the telephone wires. Alica says that’s what they do when their shoes are too old to wear anymore.

The city has recently had many artists participate in a cow exhibit. Each artist has painted a cow, much like Calgary has done but these cows are better. ;P For example: Leonardo de Vaca. Can you guess? You know the symbol with the man in a circle with his arms and legs in two different positions? Now you see a cow doing the same thing. Brilliant eh? The one I loved the most was the anti-free trade one. I will post my pictures.

Right now I am sitting on the couch in Alica’s grandma’s apartment. I am red but Karyn is redder so I don’t feel too bad. Plus the sun makes me feel so healthy. J No lecturing.

In Tlaquepaque we looked at many lovely things. It is an Artisan town and the one street is full of ‘house’ galleries. They are in the style of Mexican houses – a garden in the open centre and the rooms around and they were full of the most beautiful furniture and paintings. If only I had many houses all over Mexico to fill with all the beautiful furniture and artwork. But alas, I am a poor student and not too sad about that at all.

I believe that was the day I experienced my first paleta. Fantastic interpretation of icecream on a stick – I had a coconut one and it has been the best kind so far.

Jan. 17th - sorry so late :)

Out of my window I can see many buildings below. The one that I find the most interesting is the purple one. I swear there was odd happy children’s Spanish music loudly playing from it yesterday. Alica said that there is a school close by. I wish my elementary school played music loud enough for the neighbours to hear!

From up here (5 stories) we can hear the trucks go by, cars honking and squealing their tires, and every once in awhile a loud train horn. It reminds me of Fernie a bit, except here they hold the horn much longer. Probably a good thing too. On the city streets you will find an assortment of people and cars – most vehicles traveling with great speed, in and out in the traffic. The traffic circles are the most fun – you zoom around and it seems miraculously you pull away from the gravitation of the circle and pop out onto one of the various roads. After our driving yesterday and touring I started to recognize things here!

Last night we went downtown – to see the original Guadalajara. Of course there are many fascinating buildings and three town squares with people out everywhere. I love this about Mexico. We don’t have ‘central’ locations where our citizens can go and walk with friends, or kiss with their lover on a bench. Aqui, es muy social, muy hermosa.

Already I have begin to communicate in Spanish and understand. Last night we went to visit Alica’s aunt before dinner and it was awesome. She speaks a little English but confuses it with German sometimes, and of course is fluent in Spanish. She asked me at the beginning (en espanol) what we would speak and I said Spanish. So she spoke to us in Spanish. I understood a lot because she speaks clearly. I know that I have a long ways to go before I will speak and understand Spanish fluently but I am excited now that through immersion it will be easier. My only problem is that Alica and Adrian (su primo) spoke mostly English to me. I keep saying Alica speak Spanish but of course it is so much easier for her to speak English to me because she knows I will understand. J As my Spanish improves I am sure she will speak Spanish to me.

Last night we had lonches for dinner. They are a ‘sandwich’ only made in Guadalajara. They are made with a type of bread similar to French and have cheese and lettuce and tomatoes on them, however they are served in a sauce – a really good one. You take your spoon and pour the sauce over the lonche and then eat it. It is messy but tasty.

Right now I am going to have a shower…adios.

dos amigas

dos amigas
well...if you really want to see it up close...